Est-ce qu’on s’ancre la nuit?

L’une des questions récurrentes qu’on se fait souvent poser lorsqu’on parle d’être en passage – naviguer plus de 24 heures sans s’arrêter – est exactement celle-ci : comment faites vous pour vous arrêter la nuit? Il doit bien y avoir quelque chose d’intelligent qui nous permet d’arrêter le bateau une fois le soleil couché! Non?

Une sorte de sac magique qui nous permet de faire apparaître les 20 000 mètres de chaîne nécessaires pour jeter l’ancre en pleine mer? Ou peut-être un mur pliable qui bloquerait le vent et les vagues afin que nous puissions passer une bonne nuit de repos? Même si ces deux solutions sont un peu farfelues, l’invention mystère que nous utilisons, elle, présente un certain intérêt. Tout le monde veut savoir quelle brillante idée l’humanité a inventé pour rester en mer la nuit tombée.

Rester éveillé

Eh oui! C’est le mieux qu’on l’Homme a trouvé en 1000 ans d’inventions. Je plaisante. L’Homme a inventé quelque chose de bien mieux: les capitaines. Les capitaines sont sages et savent tout. Ils commandent aussi le respect, la déférence et portent aussi souvent la moustache. Donc, d’AUTRES personnes que cet homme de prestige restent éveillées. Cela permet au capitaine de dormir et d’être toujours prêt et dispo quoi qu’il arrive. Après tout, il est le seul maitre à bord et tous espèrent arriver à bon port, ou au minimum à un port, grace à lui. Donc, le capitaine sommeille afin de pouvoir être toujours alerte au besoin. Mais pour les autres, ça ne change rien; rester éveillé est la solution. Qu’est-ce que ça signifie concrètement? Eh bien, dès que le soleil se couche, nous commençons officiellement à monter la garde. L’un des membres de l’équipage va descendre et border les enfants dans leur lit, puis il va aller dormir un peu tandis que quelqu’un d’autre va rester dans le cockpit et coller avec de la crazy glue ses paupières dans son front et fixer ses yeux sur l’horizon.

Faire son quart

Est-ce que ça veut dire qu’on passe des heures à essayer de discerner une petite lueur au loin, potentiel signe d’un danger? Presque…mais pas tout à fait. L’électronique a fait un long chemin au cours des 30 dernières années et c’est vrai aussi dans la marine. Pablo a de l’électronique similaire à ce qu’on retrouverait sur un super tanker, ce qui rend notre quart beaucoup plus simple que d’essayer de voir les feux de navigation d’un autre bateau dans la distance. Dans le cockpit, nous avons un écran qui combine cartes électroniques et GPS. Grâce à elles, nous savons où nous sommes en temps réel et nous évite de nous échouer sur un récif par exemple (en supposant que les cartes soient exactes…). En plus des cartes, se superpose notre AIS, une technologie qui utilise l’antenne de notre radio VHF pour diffuser notre position, notre vitesse, notre azimut, etc. à tous les navires des environs. Cet AIS recueille également les mêmes informations auprès des autres navires. L’ordinateur analyse puis afficher en temps réel tous les autres navires sur la carte en relation avec nous, indiquant même les chances de collision. Super pièce de technologie, mais qui a un prix assez élevé. Ainsi, bien que tous les plus gros navires en soient équipés par la loi, beaucoup de voilier n’ont pas cette chance. Chance, volonté d’y mettre le prix ou même volonté d’être vu… En effet, beaucoup de bateaux de pêche ferment simplement leur AIS la nuit, pour ne pas annoncer au monde entier qu’ils sont en train de vider les zones interdites à la pêche de leur contenu. Certaines embarcations vont même jusqu’à fermer leurs lumières; impossible de les voir sans leur foncer dedans (à moins d’une pleine lune!). Ce qui nous amène au radar. Celui-ci nous permet de tout voir; que ce soit un bateau sans AIS, une île qui n’est pas sur une carte ou, tout aussi important, un orage! Le radar peut capter la pluie, ce qui nous permet de zigzaguer entre les zones de pluie et les vents violents qui les accompagnent.

Notre vue du cockpit la nuit. Notre position, sur la carte d’un côté et la vue radar de l’autre. Les bateaux qui ont l’AIS apparaissent en bleu. Dans le petit cercle vert sur l’écran de droite: un bateau sans émetteur AIS qu’on a détecté grâce au radar. Se déplaçant à 37 noeuds, il est très possible que ce soit le gardes côtes de la marine mexicaine qui foncent vers un bateau sans vouloir être vus.

N’est-ce pas incroyable ? Et en plus de cela, nous pouvons déclencher des alarmes sur l’AIS et le radar, nous avertissant automatiquement si quelque chose se présente dans un rayon choisi ET l’afficher dans le bateau, à la table à cartes. Tout cela tandis que le pilote automatique (baptisé James par Salty) barre Pablo pour nous. Alors vraiment, être de quart n’est pas si mal, n’est-ce pas ?

Tout à fait…. Et parfois, ça ne l’est pas! Bien que toute cette technologie rende les quarts vraiment plus facile, un accident en mer aurait des conséquences désastreuses. Et “conséquences désastreuses” n’est pas un euphémisme ici, nous parlons de perdre notre bateau, voir notre peau. Alors, est-il possible de dormir et se fier uniquement à de l’électronique, qui est soumis à l’eau salée et au mouvement constant du bateau? Bien sûr que non! Garder un oeil sur l’électronique n’est qu’une partie de ce que nous faisons. Nous l’apprécions certainement, mais être de quart implique encore de passer bonne partie de son temps à balayer l’horizon du regard. À essayer de repérer une petite lumière dans le creux des vagues sur une mer de ténèbres.

Regarder et écouter

Il y a beaucoup de gréement (éléments fixes ou mobiles du voilier) sur un bateau comme Pablo, donc beaucoup de petits bruits qui lui sont unique. Au fil des années, nous avons appris à les reconnaître presque tous. A moitié endormi dans mon lit, je peux savoir si une voile n’est pas assez bordé, ou si le moteur devrait tourner 100 tours/minute plus bas pour économiser un peu de carburant… Celui qui est de quart doit donc aussi écouter tout nouveau son qui indiquerait que quelque chose a changé. Et s’il y a des changements, il y a de fortes chances que ce soit pour le pire. Une poulie qui commence à faire le moindre bruit signifie un problème qui va nécessairement surgir au pire moment. Le moteur qui ralentit juste un instant signifie qu’un des filtres à carburant commence a être encrassé. En somme, on écoute le bateau. Et ceux des autres. Car même si on surveille l’horizon, il arrive qu’on ne voit pas de bateaux, mais qu’on les entendent. Comme la garde côtière qui est sorti de nul part à minuit au large de la côte du Panama. Ils sont arrivés rapides comme une fusée, sans lumières et tous habillés de noir. Impossible de les voir, mais Cass les as entendu et ouvert un projecteur sur eux pour comprendre ce qui se passait, les prenant au dépourvu!

L’horaire de quart

Balayer l’horizon, c’est comme regarder un feu ; on pourrait le faire pendant des heures, hypnotisés. Regarder les vagues, la bioluminescence, les étoiles, le coucher et lever du soleil. C’est vraiment un beau moment, il fait le vivre pour le comprendre. Mais peu importe à quel point nous chérissons les quarts, pas moyen de rester éveillé 24/24. C’est pourquoi, comme tous les autres bateaux du monde, nous avons chacun notre horaire de quart. Le nôtre s’est progressivement assoupli avec le temps et ressemble maintenant à quelque chose comme ça :

  • 18h00 à 23h00
    Je, Sam, suis officiellement de quart. Je prépare le bateau pour la nuit (réduction de voilure, vérifier rapidement le gréement pour éviter autant que possible les mauvaises surprises, vérifier les filtres à carburant, remonter les lignes de pêche, etc.). Cass racontera des histoires aux enfants et les mettra au lit, puis ira elle-même dormir pendant ce temps.
  • 23h00 à 1h00
    Cass prend le relais tandis que je dors
  • 1h00 à 5h00
    Je suis de retour dans le cockpit pendant que Cass est au chaud dans le lit.
James – notre pilote automatique. J’ai passé de nombreuses nuits sans lune à regarder James; seule lueur dans la nuit noire.
  • 5h00 à 10h00
    Cass admire le lever du soleil et s’occupe ensuite de préparer le petit déjeuner pour les enfants pendant que j’essaie de dormir le plus longtemps possible.
  • 10h00 à 11h00
    Vers 10h00 je suis généralement réveillé. Nous évaluons ensemble le déroulement de la nuit, et mettons rapidement à jour notre plan de navigation en conséquence. Je bois 9 tasses de café et refait une vérification rapide du gréement et du bateau. Cass me dira à quel point le lever du soleil était beau et j’essaierai de la battre en lui disant à quel point le lever de la lune était fantastique (oui oui, les lever de lunes sont magnifique!).
  • 11h00 à 13h00
    La plupart du temps, Cass essaie de rattraper un peu de repos en bas à son tour. Je joue avec les enfants – des légos ou encore des trivia (généralement des questions drôles comme “Aimerais-tu mieux être un dauphin ou un vers de terre?)
  • 13h00 à 18h00
    Nettoyage du bateau, lessive, douches, etc. Je vais réparer ce qui a brisé dans la journée et préparer le dîner. La bouffe prend clairement plus d’importance en passage, alors j’essaie de préparer des repas qui amène des sourires!

Plus largement, entre 10h00 et 18h00, nous sommes tous les deux responsables de la surveillance. Un aspect essentiel d’un passage réussi est de continuer à vivre aussi normalement que possible. Il ne faut pas attendre à la journée longue que ce soit enfin fini! Quelle expérience de vie unique qui passerait sous nos yeux. Nous passons beaucoup de temps en famille, à jouer et à dessiner ou à nous costumer. Et même si on saute l’école la plupart du temps, on doit continuer à faire le lavage, la vaisselle, la cuisine, etc. Tout ça implique d’aller à l’intérieur, de se concentrer sur les enfants, etc. Donc pas de quarts officiels durant le jour; nous misons sur la communication pour s’assurer que ce soit toujours clair qui de nous deux est responsable de garder un oeil sur l’horizon, même si la responsabilité change aux 3 minutes!

Quelque chose ne colle pas, n’est-ce pas?

Je vous entends! “Attends Sam, je croyais que tu disais que les capitaines ne montent pas la garde? Tu es capitaine, n’est-ce pas?” Oui, je suis le capitaine. Ou du moins, c’est ce que je dis à Cass chaque fois qu’elle me réveille au milieu de la nuit. Je suppose que nous sommes mariés depuis trop longtemps pour que ça l’impressionne! Donc vraiment, rien à gagner en étant le capitaine sur Pablo, et beaucoup à perdre. Principalement le sommeil, qui est plus précieux que l’or durant un passage de nuit. Être capitaine signifie être toujours disponible quand quelque chose brise, ou quand une décision doit être prise. Il y a eu des nuits où je n’ai simplement pas dormi à cause d’une panne ou parce qu’on devait jouer à éviter les paquebots au large du panama pendant des heures entières. Parfois, simplement parce que je suis aussi papa et que les enfants ont décidé de se lancer dans une bataille d’oreillers à 3 heures du mat. C’est ça la vie en passage!

Lever du soleil en mer avec un café à la main; le moment magique qui redonne tout son sens à la nuit passé debout. La prochaine nuit sera sûrement meilleure.

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